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what Rod Seed .....one of our Members wrote about the Deltec people
in South Africa:
Friday, August 20, 2010 12:49 PM
Hi Hans and maybe all members,
With helping a fellow v/maxers over the past week I thought this
info might be handy to all.
Sealed battery for a v-max BK 12 18 from above will set you back
Deltec also sell the Panasonic for the v-max at over R1000, you
could buy 3 Deltec for that price.
The Deltec staff were very friendly and professional and would even
fit the battery if you wanted.
Hope this will be of help.
A few years ago I fitted a Deltec BK12-18 on my Max and it still
to the DELTEC PEOPLE "You obtained this INFO " from our
SEAT HEIGHT BY 12.5cms The
Seat Height on this 2009 Vmax was lowered by 12.5cms.
Unfortunately no technical data came with the Pix. It is assumed that not
only the seat but also the suspension was lowered to get 12.5cms off the
your MAX to make it look all the more SEXIER.......
Subject: Carb diaphragms at reasonable prices Dear
I hope you are well.
Should a member need carb diaphragms for his or her VMAX there is a
more affordable way than buying local.
I was quoted R4300 for 4 of these by local suppliers. I searched the
web and found a company in the UK selling these at £126.80 +
£40.00for DHL delivery to SA. (R2131.00). Total saving in excess of
Take off the
seat, left side frame member\passenger footpeg, left rear shock,
rear wheel and rear brake assembly, remove the 3 bolts that hold on
the rear fender so you can slide the fender back and out of your
way, disconnect the fuel lines and reserve guage harness. May want
to take the battery out... probably not neccessary but will make it
There are only 4
screws that hold the tank in place - remove these.
With all this
out, remove the tank by twisting it down, back, and to the left. It
will come out of the left side of the bike.
Sounds like a
lot, but if you go ahead and remove everything I mentioned as
quickly as possible, you can probably have the tank off the bike in
an hour or so.
WRITTEN BY AN USA VMAXER
V BOOST HOW IT
A unique V-Boost
System gives a Turbo-like power boost to the V-MAX motor. Four
downdraft carburetors feed the cylinders through individual inlet
tracts. However, the tracts between cylinders one and two and
cylinders three and four are separated by butterfly valves. The
valves are controlled by servo motors that measure engine rpm. At
approximately 6000 rpm the servos start to open the butterfly valves
until they are completely open at 8000 rpm. With the butterfly
valves open each cylinder on an intake stroke is fed by two
carburetors, rather than a more conventional single unit. Horsepower
is considerably increased especially in the mid-and high-rpm range.
SMOOTHING THE SHOTGUN
Max ran like dog
doo doo. Would run ok with choke on, but if you cut the choke off,
it would seem like three cylinders running. Almost like a bad plug
condition. A check of the plugs revealed maybe one fuel fowled
plug. Changed the plugs and the problem still existed.
The bike made a
lot of noise, but had no Cajones. I could have been passed by a
It would often
go SNAP, CRACKLE, POP right off of idle, but get her up in the RPMs
@ WFO and it would seem uhh...ok.
happened was a plugged circuit in my carburetor(s). READ THE ARTICLE
STARTS WITH FULL CHOKE My recently
purchased 99 Vmax with only 8k miles. Was only starting with full
choke, and would not idle.. Carbs right.
WHY... to check your PETROL FILTER for rust and.... preserve your tank
during Lay-Up Periods.......?
What happens if I leave my MY
out overnight-in-the-open-elements during a tropical rain storm.
You get a petrol tank full of water for your batteries....... S
AIRFILTER-EXHAUST and the follow-up article
the Vboost modification known as "T-Boost"
by Carl Talbot
last updated thursday5july 2007
later model Vmaxes
Starter Problems with later model Vmaxes
Warning Light ----- Original Message
From: Anderson, Henry
Monday, May 21, 2012 11:26 AM
Hope you are well.
For what it`s worth
and maybe something to put in your next news letter.
If you can remember I
had the problem with the oil light coming on only at high rpm +- 9000
upwards and could not find out why?
This light will only
come on at this above mentioned rpm and as soon as you close down the
light will go of immediately – if I for instance travel a long distance
and stay out of 9+ rpm the light will stay off but the moment you get to 9
rpm it will come on again and go off as soon as you close down. This was
very frustrating and I also noted that the warmer the Max is getting
travelling long distance the oil light will come on more often but still
only at high rpm?
I took the oil light
sensor out to test it and was showing that it was working all o.k – I then
cleaned / wash it out properly with petrol and found a lot of dirt coming
out of the probe………
The results – walaaaa
NO more oil light
burning at high rpm - i can now get to the needed rpm with peace of mind
that all is o.k
Don’t know – maybe
this can help someone ells.
Hope you have a
PS - Cannot wait for those T-Shirts
HIGH MILEAGE FOR A MOTORCYCLE ENGINE?
CONSIDERED HIGH MILEAGE FOR A MOTORCYCLE ENGINE? Answer
James G. Hunchuk
guess it all depends on what type of engine is in the motorcycle in
question. A race bike engine will only last for one race and then have to
be torn down and freshened up, this goes for dirt bike racers too. An
older English bike is getting high mileage at 60 or 70 Thousand miles
whereas a new Brit' will easily last for 150,000 miles if not further. A
Japanese bike will get about the same, I have a friend with a 1970 Honda
750 Four that has over 300,000 miles on it and all he's ever done is
refresh the top end and replace the cam chain. A Harley-Davidson should
get to about 150,000 miles before the top end needs refreshing, IF it is
taken care of and riden sanely. Of course all of this information is
relative to how the bike is riden, how often it's oil is changed, if it is
stored inside or outside, in a heated garage or not? Do you live in a
dusty or wet climate, is the regular mantenance done on time, was the bike
built on a Monday or a Friday? What are you like on Monday? On Friday? I
take good care of my 1991 H-D FLSTC but I ride it like I stole it, I
finally blew the engine just after it rolled over to 150,000 miles. Now it
sounds like there's a handfull of ball bearings rattling around in the
bottom end. That's the results of 200 Kms/Hr for 40 minutes straight. Fool
me, so now I wait till I can afford to fix it. Tough question to answer,
as there are far too many variables, but I hope this helps.
probably 150 bikes I've worked on, maybe 15 had more than 50,000 miles.
They were goldwings/cruisers/Beemers. Most bikes just don't last much past
75,000. Sure, the motor may run...but the tranny,clutch,major
bearings,suspension ,etc. are shot. Not to mention most seals will leak.
If a high mileage bike seizes up on you at 65 mph, you are going to have a
bad day/life. High mileage bikes should go to the salvage yard for parts
so no one gets hurt. Browse ebay, not many bikes over 75,000 miles....
100 000 MILES PLUS
SHAFT PROBLEMS Drive
An interesting, comprehensive article with Pix
by JJ van
download article in MS Word format
LEAKING O-RING at
Oil Filter Supply Pipe
this WEAK silicone O-ring can cause big...big problems
LEAKING O-RING at Oil Filter Supply
Pipe feb 2016
My Engine runs on 3 Cylinders......
read our member's
responses to Derek's cry for help
(pre 1993 models)
Contributions ! !
Don't hesitate to send us your tips.
Don't worry if your English is not that good, with the help of Uncle
Bill Gates we will improve your grammar.
Afrikaans.......no problem.....we will publish that as well of
MOTOR PROBLEMS CAN ANYONE
DRIVE SHAFT PROBLEMSDrive Shaft Problems
An interesting, comprehensive article with Pix
by JJ van
download article in MS Word format 21
Max was Cutting-Out at every stop street and the power
delivery was erratic.
What happens if I leave my
out overnight-in-the-open-elements during a tropical rain storm.
You get a petrol tank full of water for your batteries.......
Steering Head Race
This page is under construction
BOX CARRIER BRACKET
WARNING.....! ! june
Head Race Removal
What happens if I leave my
out overnight-in-the-open-elements during a tropical rain storm.
You get a petrol tank full of water for your batteries.......
Steering Head Race
FORK SPRIN GS sat5sept09
Furbur fix - a
simple modification to the stock Vmax steering head assembly which adds a
surprising amount of stability to the bike. READ THE ARTICLE mon30mar09
this works well
and stops the 115 mph shake, it also stops any
twist that the Carl clamps don't
* THE "CARL
CLAMP"CLAMPING DOWN ON BENDING AND FLEXING
FORKS ... *
WOBBLES, WEAVES & SHAKING ISSUES.
Vmax 1997 PARTS
CATALOGUE 3.8 mb Zipped PDF
file 12oct 2012
30.584 mbPDF file
page Manual is very useful if you haven't got a Workshop Manual and you
want to get more info about the INS & OUTS of your Max. We have made a
copy of the Manual's Index to give you an idea what's it all about.
CLICK her to
download the INDEX
MAIN CHANGES from 1985 to 2001 Vmax main changes
FORK SPRINGS FORKS SPRINGS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carel van Niekerk"
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 7:06 PM
This is the parts I have fitted into my front forks from Race Tech in
I had to lower my stanchions by 1 inch through the triple T to give me
the same riding height
It really firmed the front as the old springs was too soft for my
Love your website. Thank you for providing
all of this info.
I have a problem
My recently purchased 99 Vmax with only 8k
miles. Was only starting with full choke, and would not idle.. Carbs
Well the people I bought it from had the carbs
rebuilt by a reputable Yamaha dealership four months previous, but had
let it sit again after. I figured, new plugs, drain fuel, add good
stuff, and run it hard..nope.
I would start a lot easier,and run very strong
at high revs, but would back fire every time letting off the gas.
I just had the carbs cleaned by a good mechanic
friend of mine. He pulled them, and did a thorough cleaning, but it
still backfires, and does not want to idle correctly unless we turn
the idle up, but then it keeps high rpms when you let off the gas, and
hen eventually go's down again. Could it be the mixtures need to be
messed with? is there something on paper I can show him to help? He
ran the ohm's on the spark plugs, and they seemed to be all equal. CDI
probably has the same problem as me, the airscrew on one of my carbs
seized which results it in idling more-or-less ok, but as you
accelerates slowly – run only on 3 cylinders and when the main system
takes over, it’s OK. On deceleration, it backfired since then. He must
just set his airscrews to factory standard and it will be OK
I still have to get a way to remove that screw,
but the bike is not here yet and I shall do it in good time.
Regards to all my Vmax friends and will be in my
dreams with you on the rally!!
Just make sure that your RECTIFIER is working properly.
CHECK THE VOLTAGE output, with your engine running stationary, and a
multimeter attached to the poles of your battery. REV THE ENGINE TO
appr. 4000RPM. THE VOLTAGE shouldn't be more than 14.6
REMEMBER.....as your Max is getting older the RECTIFIER whishes to
retire and instead of sending you an email or flashing your lights it
starts sabotaging your system by making the alternator putting
out a voltage of 19 + , which means your battery will be cooking all
the time and throwing-out acid as a warning, however, with a sealed
battery, the battery will expand, as the acid cannot find a way out,
and eventually will explode.
cut a spare bottom yoke across removing the steering bearing part,
then fitted it as a fork brace 2 1/2 ins down the tubes from the
bottom yoke, this work well and stopped the 115 mph shake, it also
stops any twist that the carl clamps dont
IT WAS MY IDEA I DID THE SAME THING YEARS AGO ON AN OLD TRIUMPH BONNIE
TO GET THE FORKS TO STOP FLEXING, IT ALSO WORK ON THE BSA GOLDSTAR I
HAD IN THE 70S AND NOW ON THE VMAX, I WLL TRY A GET SOME PICCY FOR YOU
SOON AS I CAN
or NO BOOST
ABOUT JAP MAXES
(1) ----- Original
From: "Jaco Van Zyl" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007
Subject: Boost or no boost
A question (or 3) me and a
friend have been debating is that jap import max's as all know puts
out a lot less kW than the Canadian and us max's. And some jap models
even does not have v-boost. Now for the real question .1 If there is
no v-boost why 4 carburetors. Or is the carbs detuned to be only as
good as 2 on a us model or are thy as good as all 4 , which would mean
that it is actually on permanent v-boost. 2 If you have a jap model
with no boost or low kW or both ,what needs to be done to upgrade to
the full 120kw monster. And finely who in SA can do it or supply the
Jaco Van Zyl
----- Original Message -----
To: 'Hans J P
Monday, December 24, 2007
RE: Boost or no boost.........................???????? (L-W)
reply on Jaco’s questions. I have a Jap Max and yes there is a big
There is a solid block between the two joined carbs where usually you
have the butterfly operated by the V-Boost servos.
slides on the carbs also have an extension piece behind them, this
limits the travel on the slide.
jets are also a lot smaller and the needle and seats also does not
allow a high inflow of fuel.
This is probably the biggest issue, there is a governor in the
speedometer and this kills it at 185 km/h
had the blocks between the carbs removed and now I constantly have two
carbs feeding one piston at the same time.
I had the carbs modified, the extensions removed the jets done and
larger needle and seats installed.
finally I had the speedometer opened (not a small job) and the
governor disabled then I had a unit installed in the wiring harness in
the headlight to override the rest of the governor.
the dyno my bike went to 109 kw then my clutch started slipping (guess
what I will do next)
total cost of the conversion cost around R4200.00 at Reht Butler (Roc
Cell +27 82 856 5885
Office +27 18 462 2015
Fax +27 18 462 9797
Hans J P Knop Bamminger [mailto:email@example.com] Sent:24
December 2007 To: RAY CLARK Subject: Boost or no boost.........................???????? Ray
Thanx for your quick
Do I understand
correctly............ you didn't install a Vboost but the conversion
you made ....means you now have a permanent Vboost.........?
----- Original Message
To:'Hans J P Knop Bamminger'
Monday, December 24, 2007
RE: Boost or no boost.........................???????? Ray Clark
carbs feed one cylinder it is not ideal for fuel economy, but it makes
the horses. I am building a electronic fuel injection kit to fit all
Maxs’ it will be bolt on and will have a fifth injector to simulate
the V-Boost but you will be able to activate it at will.
Cell +27 82 856 5885
Office +27 18 462 2015
Fax +27 18 462 9797
(5) ----- Original
From: Hans J P Knop
JACO van ZYL
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Talbot one of our most knowledgeable members posted a very interesting
article about the V Boost on our website...... check-it-out
www.awol.co.za/AirboxAirfilterExhaust.htm (at the bottom of that
can also contact Exactrep in England.
They specialise in Vmax and most likely have all the parts you need in
stock, and will be able to answer all your questions.
Contact info: Henry
firstname.lastname@example.org (But those parts
don't come cheap; for example, on the 2004 US price list I have got,
the Servo Motor US $180, electrical Control Unit Assembly US $270)
got a reply from Ray Clark. Instead of installing a V Boost he made a
conversion that gives him a permanent V Boost. Copy emails below.
(One of our other members, with a original V Boost on his
bike, changed his set-up to a permanent V Boost instead of installing
a T Boost switch)
I hope all this info
will give you a very good idea what-to-do........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaco Van Zyl" <email@example.com>
To: "Hans J P Knop Bamminger" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Subject: RE: VBOOST more
Hans I can't thank u enough for the info .
Atleast now I can start looking at options.I don't like fixing things
that are not broken so I will probably take of my stock carbs and
replace it with boost ready carbs and do it the right way with servos
and all. On the other hand the fuel injection sounds grate. A couple
of years ago before I had my max I spoke to a engineer on a forum, he
works at EGLI or something like that. That was the first time I heard
of a max with f/injection and turbo. Needless to say the kw was
ridiculous. Thank again , I think I'll be mailing ray now to thank him
and so how his f/injection is doing.
Jaco Van Zyl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Kings" <Eddie.Kings@eskom.co.za>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: Jaco's Saga
Compliments of the season.
In response to Jaco's saga I would like to add what I experienced with
my Jap import.
Engine and chassis number 3UF 001238.
I found that a pipe had been fitted between the front and rear carbs
thus permanent Vboost. The carbs had been modified to open fully and
there was no limiter in the speedo, yet it rev limited at 6000rpm in
all gears except first.
I suspected that the CDI unit was to blame so I borrowed a unit off a
friends max and to my surprise BINGO rev limiting was gone and max
performed like a stallion.
I then parted this info to another friend of mine who also had this
problem and sure enough it worked here as well.
Now don't go out and buy a CDI from Yamaha. They will charge you 3 to
4 G's for a new one. We found a local supplier (Lance) who imports
second hand CDI's for all makes of bikes and you can expect to pay
between R1200 and R1500. Quite a saving!!!
The only tiny snag is you may have to wait 3-4 weeks for delivery as
he only imports on demand, they are not off the shelf.
Lance can be contacted on 0837774982 or "e" mail email@example.com
Here are the CDI unit details:
The original restricted one is: TID14-95A 3UF-10
The one fitted now is: TID14-93B 3JP-11
I hope this helps.
E J Kings
37 Market St
I think were doing a first for any v-max website ever. The info I
received so far is not available any were on the web. I first wanted
to mail Ray and Eddie direct ,but I think there is a lot of max's that
can benefit from the info. How ever I still need a bit more info and
if possible some pics, so I can try it and give you the before and
after info with what was needed what the costs was and of coarse the
before and after dyno print outs. So here we go again .1 I need to now
if eddies friends max also limited at 6000rpm after carb pipes were
instaled.2 If so , was it also cured by installing a US max`s cdi
unit.3 Was there any changes done on stuff like new jets.If so
what,and were can it be bought .4 what was done to make the throttle
open even bigger.5 if there is any pictures it would be of great help.
If it gets faxed I will scan it and make sure its put to use.6 was
there any noticeable difference in performance after the permanent
v-boost was done.
Well that's it. I was also thinking that if it works as good as I
think it will ,I will experiment with solenoid controlled aftermarket
throttle bodies . Witch would mean boost at the touch of a button, at
Thanks to all for the info so far.
Jaco Van Zyl=
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Kings" <Eddie.Kings@eskom.co.za>
To: "Hans J P Knop Bamminger" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: EDDIE - VBOOST 06
to be honest I don't recall this letter, but let me answer the
Both our bikes, Billy and I had the pipes fitted between the carbs
with no Vboost. Both bikes rev limited at 6000rpm. They both had the
same CDI units. Both engine numbers are 3UF****. Neither had limiters
in the headlights. The slides in my bikes carbs had been replaced but
on Billy's you could see had been modified so as to open fully - piece
of plastic sawn off the slides on the bellows end or the outside.
Other than replacing the CDI's nothing else was done.
I experimented with a stage one jet kit but removed it almost
immediately because of the fuel consumption. It reduced my tank range
from 160km to 100km which is a no no with the current price of fuel.
I have heard that some guys get up to 180km on a tank but it must be
remembered that on our bikes the carbs are permanently joined and thus
the consumption will be higher. When a bike with Vboost cruises at
140km/h @ about 4000rpm the Vboost is off and thus one carb per
cylinder but on our bikes its two carbs per cylinder continuously.
By the way, I discovered that the bit of electronics found in the
headlight of my bike was actually the indicator cancel sensor and had
no effect on the engine performance.
I don't know if you know this web site. I found a lot of interesting
info here but remember this in the USA and they do not have restricted
bikes there, thus they don't mention this problem.
DON'T ALWAYS BLAME YOUR BATTERY OR THE REGULATOR.......
Did I have REAL
battery charging problems...................
As the battery on my Max is of an
excellent quality and only a few months old, I took the Max to Greg, my
favorite mechanic at CYCLE CRAFT Yamaha,
here in DBN. He checked the charging amps, which went only to a maximum
of 2.2 , and immediately pinpointed the
problem; earth connections..........probably
corroded. So he made extra earth connections to the regulator and to some
other sections of the electrical system.
..... this really has done wonders. Now......the
amps go up to ± 4.5 and the charging voltage to
14.2V at 3000 revs.
Previously, when the engine was turning at 1500 rpm, the charging voltage
only went to a maximum of 13.2V and decreased to 12.8V at higher revs.
With the result that it kept the battery just about charged at it lowest
week before Greg did the improvements I came back home from a long
distance drive ± 600 kms, killed the Max engine......
10 minutes later it wouldn’t start………. not enough power in the battery. It
only took 10 minutes of recharging at 4 amps to bring the battery up
to 12.5 volt to restart without problems. Clearly the battery was not
being charged at all during normal
cruising speeds. Hans Knop
I was entering
XXXXXX. I was traveling behind a bakkie that was well within the speed
limit. I was not speeding but the jammer was on. I did not see the
speed trap at all as I was concentrating on the bakkie in front of me,
which was pulling over to the side of the road. Suddenly a speed cop
jumped out into the road and stopped me. I immediately switched off my
jammer (as we had heard that the police in XXXXXXX and surrounds were
aware of the jammers) and waited for the cop. His opening statement
was “Sir, it is my belief that you have a speed trap jamming device in
your vehicle. You have committed a very serious offence by preventing
me from doing my duty, and I regret to inform you that I am placing
you under arrest for interfering with the duties of a police officer”.
By that time he had walked to the front of the bike, saw the jammer,
and actually pointed it out to me. I told him that I had no idea what
he was talking about as I had bought the bike “as is” and have no idea
what the jammer unit was. He was not interested, asked me for the bike
keys, which I handed over. He asked me to accompany him so that he
could show me how they detected the device.
speed trap radar was a unit manufactured by Truvello of Pretoria. I
think it is one of the Denel divisions. They manufacture devices that
are attached to traffic lights that take photos when you cross a red
light and also record the speed as you cross the red light. They also
manufacture automated speed trapping devices which you see a lot of
these days on the Gauteng freeways.
indicated to me that there were 3 small screens on their radar gun.
First screen reflects the target speed limit (set on 69 k / hr) the
second screen would show the actual speed of the vehicle. The third
screen showed the word JAMMED. This he indicated to me was as a result
of my radar jammer. He then took my license and ID and asked me about
my personal details – where I worked and so on.
then asked his colleague to call for their towing vehicle, whilst
informing me that my vehicle was being confiscated pending an
investigation. He then informed me that I could call my lawyer to see
me at the Police Station where I would be charged with Obstruction of
Justice. He also told me that as it was Saturday; that there was no
possibility of a bail hearing until Monday and that I would be
detained in jail until the Monday bail hearing. By this time I had had
enough and asked him what the likely fine would be. “Sir, you have
committed a very very serious offence. It is a criminal charge. I do
not know what the fine will be but it will surely be very very high.”
His colleague agreed with him on this. I told them again that I had no
idea what the device was, that I would definitely have it removed, and
thanked them for pointing it out to me. I then said that I did not
know what the “protocol” was, but is there perhaps a spot fine that I
could pay? They scoffed at the idea, but I could see from their body
language that I was on the right track. I then asked them if I could
perhaps make a donation to their children’s’ school fees. They spoke
to each other in their own language. The one got up and walked away
whilst the other backed off about 2 meters. He asked me what my
donation would be. I asked him whether R 200 would be OK. He told me
to put the money into a crack that was in a wooden pole in front of me
and to then walk to my bike. He followed me and gave me my license and
ID and told me in no uncertain terms that the unit had to be removed.
They now had my name (easy to remember) and there would be no second
These guys knew
their jobs. They had obviously been very well briefed by a
departmental head that knew his story.
I discussed this
issue with XXXXXXX, him being an attorney, and also he too has a
jammer fitted to his bike. XXXXXXXX was not certain that they could
have made it stick as there were no cases that he was aware of where
convictions had been obtained on the basis of obstruction of justice.
Never-the-less a weekend in jail could not have been prevented as the
arrest would have been for obstruction of justice – not speeding. The
case would have hinged on whether the device was actually the cause of
the Truvello jamming, which clearly was the case.
I have decided
that I will rather face and pay a traffic fine than even a few hours
in jail. In a way I am quite happy that this has also reminded me that
I should perhaps ride a bit slower and smell the roses; see the
scenery; keep one wheel on the ground so to speak.
I have since then
discovered that Denel also manufactures radar jamming devices for
aircraft which allows the jamming of missile radars and so forth. I
have also in the past seen on movies certain scenes where aircraft
pilots maintain that “they have been jammed”. I therefore conclude
that Denel are now using this same technology to enhance their speed
jamming product by providing the info on the screen that the unit has
have already had a huge response from the Vmax team.
Much Much appreciated.
Have a nice weekend and I will let you know when the problems is
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007
I have, hopefully, a small problem with
Max, every so often I seem to run on 3 cylinders. If I clean out
the plugs and re-set the gaps, she is ok for a time. I had to
clean the plugs again today and found that the rear right cylinder
plug was a bit oily. Could this be the problem and if so what is
Dont panic yet. I would follow the
following theory. The plug is wet because it is not igniting the
fuel. Therefore I would suspect the following. Spark plug Spark
plug cap Spark plug lead. I would not suspect a coil as each
coil services two cylinders and your problem is on one cylinder.
Do this change one lead complete with cap and plug from a good
cylinder to the suspect cylinder and see if the problem moves
from the one to the other. If so then change the lead if problem
persists change the cap. Process of elimination. If this doesnt
solve the problem then I would suggest taking it to a reputable
bike shop because then it is going to get complicated. Hope this
helps and I think this will solve it. Graham Fisher
Had the same problem and
found one of my plug leads was not screwed in properly.If you
run the bike and then when its running on 3 feel which pipe is
cold,that will tell you which plug lead to look at.Hope its
not the front one like mine it is a bitch to get to.
probable reason why your spark plug would be oily is
because the spark plug has not been firing; when it
fires it will burn off all the oil. I therefore
conclude that you should not have an oil ring problem.
The search should
perhaps be around the reason why it is not sparking. I
have had similar problems in the past (and so has Carl
– I have forwarded your email to him and I am sure
that he will respond separately). I enquired from
Exactrep in England what the possible source of the
problem could be and their response was to “check the
coils, spark plug leads and caps”. I replaced all of
the spark plugs, caps and leads but the intermittent
problem did not go away. I had not checked the coils,
and asked them how to do that. Their response was to
first swap them around from one piston to the other
and to check thereafter whether the problem had then
moved to the other piston.
In the process of
doing this I removed all the coils from the bike and
noticed that the area between the bike frame and coils
was filthy and grubby, so I cleaned it all off and
spray-painted the area. Something then told me to put
everything back the way that it originally was – and
my problem was gone. I do not know why – I can only
assume that perhaps it was an earthing problem?
finding can sometimes be a pain.All bikes must
have new clean air and feul filter and plugs and be
Derek seems to
have an electrical fault-either there is no spark
or there is intermittent spark.
When Derek says
that the problem improves after cleaning the plug it
leads me to deduce that it is intermittent
spark.Intermittent spark probably causes the plug to
become gummed up until it eventually cannot fire as
well,even if the cause of the intermittent spark
Start with the
coils-check that all electrical couplings are clean
and not corroded-clean with electrical parts cleaner
in aerosol can-even silicone spray has worked and it
coats the electrical parts.I have generally found
-the two point
plug that connects to the coils generally are the
culprits-they become corroded and therefore
interupt(intermittently)flow of current or they make
bad(or no contact).
numbering of cylinders are;
- left rear no
-left front no
-right rear no 3
-and right front
The coils are
situated as follows ;
-the coil for no
1 the left one above the battery,
-the coil for no
3 the right coil above the battery ,
-the coil for no
2 is the coil on the right front of the bike
-and the coil
for no 4 is on the left front of the bike-yes 2 and
4 coils are on the opposite sides.
I am 99% sure
that it could solve the problem.If not check the
spark plug supressors themselves.The ignition wires
themselves are quite tough.
I would say that one needs to check the battery
first. Under 8.9 volts it will not fire the igniter
(CDI) so that is a starting point in case we are
getting close to deadline voltage. Then check the
CDI unit. An oiled plug is obviously the culprit
cylinder (check fuel is getting thru to that
cylinder and there is spark on that HT lead)
I have copied our Deon van Wyk here, as Deon
experienced an unusual problem on his VMax recently.
It may be a pointer.
Subject: Re: VMAXWORLD eNEWSLETTER No
15 - Vmax Engine Running on 3 Cyl. Responses -
SEALED BATTERY - (a-i)
One thing I know for sure
is that to look for a problem on the max is a huge
exercise.I picked up a problem with my bike with it
all of a sudden starting to misfire,jerk and
backfire like it's going out of fasion.When the bike
misfires and backfires ,the revcounter hits the
maximum solid and then all of a sudden everything is
back to normal(revcounter back to its original
position) and running like a bom,just to start the
With an electical problem
in mind I started looking for loose connections-plugleads,coilscrewcaps,killswitch,
the bike would go well for 10-20km and then just
start to play up again.At last somebody told me that
the cdi unit was at fault and I took it out,just to
find that a new unit costs R4600.00 from Yamaha!!!If
you think that getting to the front coil is a
mission,try and get the cdi unit out.Luckily I
didn't buy a new one.Unfortunately this all happened
in December and I couldn't get somebody to check the
unit and the bike had a nice rest over the christmas
At last I took the bike
to racepreparations in Hatfield in January and
after they took the bike to pieces (for a second
time!!) and 3 weeks later they found water in the
After draining the
rubbish from the tank,the bike is going like a
rocket again.No misfire,no backfire,no jerking!
Simple solution to what I
thought was a major problem.
is the size of two match boxes side by side very light with a belt
no fitting to the helmet or bike.
earphone and mic is the type you hook over your ear and you can
bend the mic to suit you.
sound is very clear and you can adjust the volume for rider and
with an audio cable for a walkman, cd or mp3 player.
I had no
problem putting on my helmet and it didn’t feel uncomfortable.
not wireless, you and the pillion is connected to the unit with a
cable to your belt.( watch the wire when you get off the bike
only one earphone not stereo.
Depending on your speed and helmet the air noise can be
transferred to the earphone and you can’t communicate clearly.
not water proof.
know how long the AAA batteries will last.
say they don’t want to talk to the missus and enjoy a quiet bike
ride, but after 12 hours talking to your self and humming that same
song stuck in your mind gives you or the missus verbal diarrhea at
the next stop, so this can be a good gadget.Or your missus could tell you about
that sexy babe to the left while you are admiring the scenery to the
earlier model Vmaxes
(pre 1993 models)
On the exactrep web page a replacement bolt is
available for the bolt that fastens down the oil filter housing.Exactrep warn that the original is
I have done plenty of oil changes without
problems....until yesterday when the bolt stripped....that bolt is
really like toffee...soft.
Now what to do.I tried
everything even a vise grip which made it worse.The thing is that
there is no real space to manoevre down there.
Since I did not have an "easy out" broken bolt
remover I had one last choice.
I steel welded a socket onto the stripped
bolt.First I welded it on the inside however when fitting a ratchet
it turned the welding off.Now I started
to become concerned and very
worried.Fortunately the bolt was part of a one piece flat washer.I
tried again welding the inside of the socketand also tacking the outside of the socket to the washer.
Much to my relief I was able to remove the oil
filter housing and do the oil and filter
change.One does not really notice the socket
welded onto the bolt and after spray painting it black it blends in
with the oil filter housing.Be carfull with the original , mine
worked fine until it stripped.
Noticeable at the Vmax rally was that many Maxers had done fewer
combinations of the handling mods.Only one Vmaxer at the rally(John
from PE) had a complete set of mods(except for a steering damper)
namely he had :radial tyres,solid engine mounts,swing arm brace(no
one else had this) & frame brace. At that stage I was quite happy
with the improved handling I got from the radiaI tyres and solid
engine mounts. I have recently done the swing arm and frame brace
mod and fitted a steering damper.These mods really added even better
cornering and I highly recommend that you do all of them.In
combination they really work.I also found that 20 wt fork oil and
suspension set to maximum with tyre pressures of 240 Kpa(cold with
nitrogen in tyre) works well. Vmaximus Carl Talbot
Does your oil light come on under hard acceleration, even though
your oil level is ok? - GOOD ! Yes ... this tells you that your
motor is running at full power.
Don't worry, the light
comes on because the sensor that detects the oil level is in the
front of the crankcase, and under hard acceleration, oil is pushed
back and away from the sensor. Luckily, the intake for the oil
pump is in the rear, so oil pressure is maintained.
available in SA
The story so far.....
with the help of Hilton found a sealed, maintenance free battery
supplied by Probe Electric that fits snugly in the VMAX. This is an
18 amp unit compared to the 16 amp of the standard unit. The extra
amps will obviously be welcome to all that have a starting problem.
cell no 0828208076 - 011 873 5753 trading from Rombo Mtrs Rietfontein road Primrose
can be contacted and will supply this unitDELTEC BK12-18 . I paid R300.00
vat Inc. (AS FROM
1 March 2007: R360 incl Vat - Editor)
I fitted one last night and did not experience any problems. Minor
adjustments to the connector cables are required
I am sure that our members will find this
replacement maintenance free battery amust do.We all know what a mission it is just to check the water
level of the unit.
the tip John.
It came exactly at the right time as my ordinary
battery, only 15 months old, was giving
Interesting to mention that I originally suspected the Rectifier
being the culprit. On the morning of our 1st Durban breakfast run Mr
Max started quickly, no problems. Arrived 30 minutes later at
Amanzimtoti, and stopped for petrol. Full tank ja....? Mr Max now
happy! But...nie-kan-start-nie, not enough umph in the
battery, push start and drive 50 meters to meeting place with other
Maxers. Switched off engine. 30 minutes later, all Maxers have
arrived ready to go, and can you believe it, Mr Battery got his ampy
powers back again to enable Mr Max happily firing-up his cylinders
Thereafter during a period of about 10 days only short distances
were done without any problems of Mr Battery.
that period I monitored the voltage of the battery every day. Also
had the Regulator checked at my favourite Yamaha dealer, and was
found to be in perfect working order.
Final conclusion, the battery is the real problem.
observations of the voltage
same problen as in Amanzimtoty after riding a distance of about 30
I bought the sealed one from Mario, and I must say he was right on
the job with my order and mailed the battery at the same day he
received my fax confirming payment in his bank account. Mailed by
ordinary post on Thursday and arrived at our local post office the
R342 inclusive Vat + R50 postage.
sealed battery is now sitting nicely in the Max and the difference
is very much noticeable.
March 22, 2007.
DELTEC SEALED BATTERY
imported from France
month ago the15 months old battery of
my Mistress was getting tired and
wished to be retired. At the same time John van Nieuwenhuizen
informed us about a company that
supplies a DELTEC sealed battery that fits our Max snugly, and at
a really low price .
fitted one to my Max, and I must say this battery not only holds 2
more amps, but is much much more powerful, and of a much much
better quality than all the other open batteries I had used
previously in my Max. Hans Knop P.S.
Just make sure that your RECTIFIER is working properly.
CHECK THE VOLTAGE output, with your engine running stationary, and
a multimeter attached to the poles of your battery. REV THE ENGINE
TO appr. 4000RPM. THE VOLTAGE shouldn't be more than 14.6
REMEMBER.....as your Max is getting older the RECTIFIER whishes to
retire and instead of sending you an email or flashing your lights
it starts sabotaging your system by making the alternator
putting out a voltage of 19 + , which means your battery will be
cooking all the time and throwing-out acid as a warning, however,
with a sealed battery, the battery will expand, as the acid cannot
find a way out, and eventually will explode.
CONTACT Mario,the importer and distributor of the DELTEC BK12-18 battery, at Rombo Motors Rietfontein road Primrose . 011 873 5753
- Cell 082 820 8076 -
Mario is on the ball and will help you quickly.
small #6 or equivalent self tapping screw (like a sheet metal
screw) and a drill bit that is equal to the "root" diameter of the
small hole through the cap only. Be careful, the cap is only ~2mm
thick and the head of the fuel screw is right below it - if you go
through the cap, it's easy to ruin the head of the fuel screw!
you drill the small hole, thread the tapered profile screw into
the cap until it catches.
Gently twist the screw with pliers while pulling and the plug will
come out. jan07
Flow, Noise, and Design
from VMAX OUTLAWS
By Terry Hayden
Exhaust Flow and Noise
Flow and noise do not have to be
synonymous. According to my calculations, for best performance a
muffler on the Max should be able to flow at over 300 cfm with a
backpressure of no more than 0.2 psi.
Unfortunately, the straight through
perforated bore with absorption wrap (eg glass wool jacket) that
appears to be the most common free flow performance silencer is also
one of the poorest designs for a motorcycle. This is due to the
intermittent nature and high velocity of motorcycle exhaust.
To improve the effect of this type of
exhaust it is recommended to have a smaller outlet than inlet. This
encourages the wave motion in the jacket. It is also recommended to
have a minimum of 1.25 inches of absorption material surrounding the
bore. This equals at least a 4.5" can diameter for a 2" bore. If the
reduction is kept reasonable (8% or less) there should be no
noticeable loss in performance. So if considering a new exhaust, you
might want to match the bore close to your collector/ tail pipe and
chose a size of outlet tip slightly smaller to match the desired
noise level. You then have the option of switching out tips vs. cans
for performance changes...
If noise is a real problem, for now
keep on the stock dual exhaust vs. restricting the single can.
Yamaha did a good job on its design despite having to keep within
noise restrictions. The collector box fools the engine into thinking
the primary pipes are dumping into open atmosphere and smoothes out
the pulses allowing a more continuous flow through the mufflers. The
stock exhaust is heavy but it works fairly well....better than a
choked off single can by far...(Creating just a single (1)
additional pound of pressure, eg with too small of an silencer
outlet, would reduce hp by 10 to 15%).
Having said all this, there is a real
need in the motorcycle world for a free flow low noise silencer. A
lot of work is being done in the automotive field directing exhaust
sound waves through a muffler in a manner that they cancel each
other out. Although more difficult some of this technology could be
used for a m/c. As a minimum, a dual silencer system will provide
the best opportunity to combine performance with real world daily
of m/c exhausts can fill books, but here is my theoretical two bits
to the 4-1 vs 4-2-1 discussion.
There are two primary considerations involved in designing/choosing
an exhaust. The first deals with the exhaust gas that travels at
200-300 feet per second. Here we are concerned with reducing the
pressure while maintaining flow
velocity to get the best cylinder exhaust purging. The second is
exhaust pulses or finite-amplitude pressure waves which travel the
speed of sound or at about 1700 feet per second. These pulses can
be tuned to create an effect known as scavenging (sucking additional
exhaust out and intake charge in, with a properly timed negative
- General rule of thumb, a narrower diameter pipe will improve low
rpm flow hence torque but may limit top end. A wide diameter pipe
will enable top end power but have poor low end velocity (eg great
for the track but lacking on the street). So choose the where you
want your power band and set diameter accordingly. Increasing or
decreasing pipe diameter 1/8th will move the torque peak about 500
rpm up or down. Varying the length of the pipe will fill in the
power curve around the torque peak. Shorter pipes fill above and
longer pipes below. A good starting point for exhaust pipe area is
the circumference of the valves times the maximum lift plus about
15%. A good starting point for the length of the primaries is 28-32
- When a positive exhaust pulse traveling down the pipe reaches an
opening or increased diameter it is reflected back as a negative
pulse. This negative pulse can be timed to reach an open exhaust
valve to provide scavenging. The rpm's that this occurs is at peak
torque and continues in the upper portions of the bike's power
range. However, there is a trade off. In the lower rpm's the valves
are open longer and thus also allow a positive wave to hit. This
usually occurs around 2/3's - 3/4's of the torque peak (between
4000-5000 rpm range on the Max) and is why you see a lot of dyno
dips in the power band in this range. The positive wave pushes
exhaust back into the cylinder and in some cases, if there is enough
valve overlap it will travel up the intake
track and cause triple loading of the intake charge (air is drawn
through, pushed back and drawn through again.) Here is where the
4-1 versus 4-2-1 make a difference. The 4-1 will have a STRONG tuned
pulse. Therefore it will have a higher top end (strong negative
wave) but a bigger hole in the mid range (strong positive pulse hits
while valve is open). A 4-2-1 will soften and lengthen the pulses,
as the 4-2 connection provides an interference wave in addition to
the primary waves. A similar effect can be done with stepped pipes.
The top end effect won't be as great but it will be longer. The mid
range dip will also be shallower hence, the adage that a 4-2-1
In a nutshell, the biggest decision
for power is the diameter of the pipe and then the length. Choose
these based on where you want your power band. Tuning the exhaust
pulses with a 4-1 or 4-2-1 then should be done with the idea to
compliment your first choice....and of course always have a
FRONT-END SHAKES.----- dec2006
The following statement shows my personal experience about front end
shakes in the V-Max under full power speeding, why they happen and
how to control them.
In NO WAY my purpose is to blame about specific aftermarket products
( frame braces, front plates, fork spring, etc ) or the bike itself.
of the high speed front end shakes in stock V-Max's comes basically
from these two settings: the wrong aerodynamic configuration and the
We have to remind that the V-Max is a comfortable daily run bike
with much-much more power than a regular cruiser.
At 130 mph or even lower speeds, the aero-shape of the stock V-Max
plus the rider offer a totally wrong aerodynamic configuration,
loosing down-force ( depression ) over the front wheel and making
the front end shakes.
It is impossible to achieve high speeds stability with a square
front section bike, a raised handle bar and and a well stand rider
Just take a look at any racing bike and you will get the same
conclusions I got:
1.- The handle bars are almost at the same height of the pilot seat.
2.- Racing pilots need to bend their body over the fuel tank to
complete the aerodynamics of the bike, in fact, the aero-design of
racing bikes consider the pilot as an integral component of the
3.- Racing bikes have very sharp front plastic body works including
the plastic screen, all of them pointing to the ground creating a
BALANCE between the depressive down-force over the front wheel and
the air drag resistance. ---This is the most important thing.---
If you create excessive down-force over the front wheel you will
have amazing "straight run stability " but you will crash the bike
at the next curve because when you bend the bike over the asphalt,
the down-force will make the front wheel over- steer in excess.
I made these simple modifications on my own 1995 V-Max and the
results "are" impressive.
1.- Installed a super sport handle bars sets, at the same height of
the side scoops ( or lower if you want ).
2.- Lowered as much as I could the front headlight, the front
turn-lights, the spedo, installed a very curved wind screen over the
headlight, ( similar to the Monster Ducati´s ).
3.- ( This is important ) Bend your chest over the dummy tank and
tight your arms around the side scoops to complete the aerodynamics
of the bike.
These simple and cheap modifications allows me to have total control
over the front end shakes, and the proof is that, when I run at 130
mph (with the body bend over the dummy tank!!) the bike turns into a
totally different bike, feels very safe, solid and stable, the
visual through the wind screen is perfect, you can see any obstacle
approaching from so far, no vibration on your helmet, ( I can even
read the plate of the cars being surpassed ).......but, as soon as I
lift my head-chest just couple inches over this racing position and
the stability of the bike begin to change...the more I stand my
chest the more the bike loose straight-run stability.
Hope these simple statements help other riders to have a safer and
more enjoyable rides. Franco Ferrara ...member 122 US VMAX CLUB
I trust that you are well, I am counting the days to the Rally.
Hans I have to thank JJ van Zyl for
sharing his problem with us and Carl Talbot's subsequent advice.
I was at the Dolphin Rally in Graaff
Reinet this past week end and while driving slowly down the main
street I experienced the weaving that JJ referred to in his letter.
At first I thought I had a puncture. But after checking realized
something else was wrong..
On my return home I stripped the
front end and removed the steering and behold the top bearing was so
full of gunge that it could not rotate. I have subsequently bought
new bearings and replaced both top and bottom.
So full marks for the "Tips" and
Forum pages, had I not read them I would not have known what the
I have now put in a home made "O"
ring beneath the washer that covers the top bearing. There is a gap
there that allows dirt into the housing. This "O" ring is available
at any clinic. HIV organizations are giving them away free at all
JJ handling problems - Try cleaning(withought removing)the steering
bearings and grease.You will probably find them rusted, dry and gummed
up with brown sticky gunk.Do not overtighten(or undertighten) the
bearing nuts before you lock the lock nut.The tightening procedure
known as the Furbur fix generally works. Regards Carl T.
You previously had a problem with your
V-Boost when the motor was not working due to a bad connection and
solved with contact cleaner spray. My V-Boost stopped cutting-in at
6000 rpm but I can hear the servo motor making it's usual whining 3 to
5 second noise when I switch the ignition on. Have you got an idea
what could be wrong?
From: Carl Talbot [mailto:email@example.com]
Sent: 10 August 2006 12:53 PM
To: 'Hans J P Knop'
V-Boost doesn't kick in....
Regarding your Vboost you do not say if the cleaning of the electrical
couplings worked.You must distinguish between
-switching the ignition on and hearing the Vboost servo opening and
which sounds like a long whining"tweeee....tweeee" and
-switching on and hearing the servo making a whining "twe..twe".In
condition it is misleading insofar that you think Vboost works-but it
So remove the left faux air intake ,remove the electrical
and you should be ok.If the problem persists let me know and I will
you pages from the workshop manual that you can check and test the
the V boost system with.
Incidentally my bike started again to run on 3 cylinders yesterday and
cleaining the electrical couplings of the underseat coils that feed 1
cylinders the mighty Max was running smoothly again.
Wednesday, 09 August 2006
Technical Tips Michelin Radial Tyres
For those who have done the 17" rear wheel conversion and are running
radial tyres here follows my personal experience and observations.
My first set of radial tyres where Michelin Macadam 100 in 180/55 rear
and 110/80 front.The rear was retired at 9600 km(6000 miles) with 1mm
tread remaining.This rear tyre I worked harder than the tyre that it
was replaced with.
The tyre to follow was a Michelin pilot road also of 180/55 size.
road seems to be a different rubber compound than the macadam 100 and
I found it to be better in the corners as far as outright grip and
cornering confidence goes.I have now run 6480 km on the rear pilot
road together with front macadam 100.The front macadam 100 at that
stage had 16 000 km on and would probably still run another 4000-5000
NEXT TYRE FRONT
I next replaced the front Macadam 100 which is a 110/80 X 18" with a
Michelin pilot road 120/70 X 18".
MY CURRENT TYRE SET UP
What are my personal experience with the pilot road 120/70 and 180/55
combination.Well very good in fact.The steering in corners has become
lighter.It seems as though the lower profile and wider width of the
120/70 front make cornering easier.By this I mean that I now do not
need to throw my body weight as much anymore into the bike to get it
to lean over more in corners.Maybe also the wider 120/70 tracks better
with the 180/55.This is the tried and tested combination on most sport
and touring bikes and is used in particular on the new Yamaha FZR
1.According to Michelin , the pilot road is a good tyre for Fazers
,Bandits and VFR's.Michelin indicate that the front pilot road has a
semi elliptical rounded profile that offers progressive steering.What
was also visible was that both front and rear tyres are being
utilised more on the outsides than previously with the 110/80 front
tyre.Seems like pilot road does exactly what Michelin claims it does.
MY NEXT REAR TYRE
I expect to retire the rear pilot road before the Vmax rally in
October 2006 and already have a new rear tyre waiting in the garage
,being a 180/55 X 17" Michelin pilot sport.Why a Michelin pilot
sport-well according to Michelin it is a good tyre for a high
performance bike like the Blackbird and the Hayabusa.If its good
enough for them its good enough for Mr. Max.What I like about the
pilot sport is that it has more rubber on the road.By this I mean that
there are less grooves cut in the tyres and hence a bigger contact
patch on the road.Michelin claim that the pilot sport offers excellent
grip in the wet and in particular sport performance,handling ,
stability ,durability and mileage. We will see when I change to this
tyre although ,based on my previous experience on Michelin tyres ,I am
sure that the tyre will live up to the manufacturers claims.
NITROGEN,TYRE CHANGES AND WHEEL
I have always run nitrogen in my tyres .I change my tyres myself at
home and balance them myself on an old school static wheel balancing
device .The static balance method is favoured by moto GP teams
and once again if it it good enough for them its good enough for Mr.
Max.The tyre changing and balancing is however another topic and maybe
the subject of a future letter.
oil cooler This might be of interest.
When I purchased my V Max I was a little concerned at the small amount
of oil it takes.I believe that the more oil for heat dissapation as
well as keeping the oil as cool as possible can only be a good thing.
How to fit an oil cooler. More oil-cooler oil Bargain. This is what I
did. I got hold of the following bits. Honda CB 900 +- 1980 model oil
cooler and pipes. Yamaha XS 1100 oil cooler adaptor fits behing the
oil cooler housing ( remember to get the mounting bolt as well). XS
1100 uses the same oil filter as the older maxes. Four hose clamps
some stainless steel hose sheathing. Some aliminium plate.(Go to a
place that makes signs.They use it and usually have old signs lying
around and you can get the plate for next to nothing). Two 90 degree
elbows to fit the adaptor.( A brake (lorry air brakes supplier) is
where I got mine) The CB 900 cooler is long and narrow and fits nicely
under the radiator. The Yamaha adaptor needs to be machined slightly
as well as the Vmax oil filter housing needs its fins machined off so
as to squeeze behind the frame support pipe in the front. Make
brackets to fit the cooler from the frame mounting on either side.I
used the hose mounting bolts on the cooler to attach the cooler to the
brackets. Fit the XS 1100 adaptor with the elbows coming out the
bottom. Cut the hoses to suit remember to wash them out slide over the
stainless sheathing slide over the elbows and clamp with the
hoseclamps 2 either side for peace of mind. It is easy once you have
the bits it is self explanatry what to do. Oil pressure up by 0.5 bar
which says the oil is cooler and an additional half liter of Castrol
RS racing.Stay away from Castrol Edge it will eat your clutch.I found
out the hard way. Another Monkey trick I did was to preload the front
springs.I got sick and tired of trying to get air in the forks.Tooo
muuuch Tooo liiiiiittle. Ag kak. I got some pipe from an exhaust place
the same size as the present pipe in the forks and cut 2 X 2.5 inch
pieces and installed them in the forks preloading the springs some
more. It worked and let me tell you the road from Pietersburg to
Tzaneen is not for Moffies and my Max goes like the wind corners and
all. Gives the superbikes a big skrik in the corners. Graham Fisher
On my '88 Max I experienced a recurring problem: the bike would run
on 3 cylinders and it always seemed to be one of the rear two( numbers
1 and 3).The first sign of running on 3 is
that the revs drop at idle below
1000rpm.This symptom must not be confused with blocked pilot air jets
bad spark plug or a bad spark plug suppressor. At higher engine speeds
could feel it too and it was very irritating.
Strangely this mostly occurred after I washed the bike. When starting
bike again it would run on 3 cylinders (intermittently). The problem
sometimes stay for a few hours or days and then "dry up". I always
it was water getting into the spark leads, spark plugs or where ever ?
Blowing these parts with compressed air did not work either. I never
strong detergent soaps or degreasers when washing my bike ,however I
dreaded washing the bike for fear of causing the running on 3
When my friend Dok experienced the same symptoms he, after plenty of
trial and error checked the ignition coils
for the two rear cylinders (no 1 and
3).These are placed under the seat in the wiring harness above the
Resistance and voltage tests on them with digital micrometer showed no
There is however a two point electrical coupling leading to ignition
coil. Each cylinder has its own ignition coil. After opening the
cleaning it with electrical parts cleaner (available at most DIY stores
aerosol can), the problem was solved. It seems that tap water has
chemicals and residues that remain behind after the water dries. This
bad electrical breaks which over time cause all sorts of problems.
I found a similar electrical problem with my Vboost system. When you
on the ignition the V boost servo motor should go through an entire
opening and closing which takes approximately 3-5 seconds and you can clearly hear a whining sound. I found
mine was no longer doing this and there
was only a short 0 .5 sec sound. I expected the worst namely that the
electronic control unit had packed up. Those units however are not
failure. Chances are once again that the electrical couplings to and
V boost control unit (located inside the left air intake) has become
up .The solution once again is to spray electrical parts cleaner in
electrical couplings. It solved my problem and V boost works as it
Routine maintenance , particularly the electronics is highly
recommended. Vmax is a very open and naked bike so the electrical wiring couplings
sometimes become compromised. Newer model Vmaxes are normally not
affected (yet) but chances are that you might experience one of these
problems for which the solution is simple enough.
Your letter about the
various electrical problems one can encounter makes one think.
Having lived for 12
years on a sailing boat, in a salty environment causing electrolysis
and corrosion on all metal parts including electrical instruments
and its wiring systems, has taught me to take preventive measures.
Silicone seal and
Vaseline helped a lot to prevent possible problems to happen.
like globes in waterproof navigation lights eventually started to
corrode in its fittings. In the beginning I used to spray Q20 on
certain fittings but learned the Q20 dries up or gets
washed away by rain after a while, I then tried
Vaseline, that works fantastic and stays on all the time.
the following in the Vmax owners manual:
"Your Yamaha engine
has been designed to use regular unleaded gasoline with a pump
octane number ([R+M]/2) of 86 or higher or research octane
number of 91 or higher. If knocking or pinging occurs, use a
different brand of gasoline or premium unleaded fuel. Unleaded
fuel will give you longer spark life and reduced maintenance
cost. If unleaded gasoline is not available, then regular leaded
gasoline can be used.
Many Vmax owners have reported good
performance using standard unleaded gasoline of 87 or so pump
octane number. Although this seems to be adequate for the vast
number of Vmaxes, some, depending on location and modification
levels, seem to require gasoline with a slightly higher pump
octane number. I personally have several Vmaxes and in my
location (Arizona) I've noticed that my 1996 model particularly
seems to require higher octane in order to reduce detonation
possibility. However we are blessed with additives in the fuel
which tend to reduce it's overall performance, which is also a
"The key point of all this is you should use
the minimum pump octane (AKI) fuel that will run in your engine
without knocking. You're wasting your money on higher octane
fuels if there aren't needed to control knock. The two most
common myths regarding pump octane (AKI) are that it will
increase performance, and result in better fuel mileage. You may
see improvements in your bike due to the cleaners in higher
grade, higher quality fuels. However octane by itself will not
have any effect."
There are two types of gasohol; gasohol
containing ethanol and that containing methanol. Gasohol containing
ethanol can be used if ethanol content does not exceed 10%. Gasohol
containing methanol is not recommended because it can cause fuel
system damage or vehicle performance problems."
From: MAIL AWOL [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: 26 January 2006 05:50 PM
To: Carl Talbot Subject: Tyres
My previous Pirelli rear tyre, which I replaced with a
Bridgestone, lasted 17 330 km . That's a lot more than you got with
the Bridgestone on your bike, I am wondering why? Could it be that
perhaps the Pirelli might be a better quality tyre, it's more
expensive to start off with. But of course we all treat our tyres
differently and that can make some difference too.
I don't know how
many kms I will get out of my Bridgestone front tyre as the previous
one was still on when I bought the bike.
You have done quit
a few kms since you bought your bike.
I get more or less
the same fuel consumption as you with your Max.
I bought my bike, a
1995er, in March 2002 with 9637 miles on the clock, now close to
26000. I suppose the bike was manufactured in the US. When I bought
the bike the previous owner, who had a bike exhaust and silencer
business, had a specially designed single pipe fitted. It gave a
rough unsophisticated sound. Luckily they still had the originals
which they then put back on the bike for me. Afterwards I drilled
five 13 mm holes at the end of each silencer, which gave me, in my
opinion, a nice sophisticated sound. Although it is all a question
of taste. Some people like Chopin music and others like hip-hop or
The tyre life from that
cross ply tyre (Bridgestone Excedra 170/80 X 15)was acceptable to me
considering my riding style etc .I also replaced the tyre before all
the tread had worn off. Some guys ride a tyre until the canvass
appears-that can add a couple of thousand more kilos to that tyres
life. This tyre is not V rated as the Standard 150/90 X 15 is. I am
aware that some riders can use up any tyre within 2000km with hard
Availability of a
specific tyre is not always there at a time that you require it. Be
that as it may it is rider input that largely dictates how regularly a
tyre needs changing. Tyre life is not now the biggest factor to
me-safety and handling are more important to me. As I said earlier it
is great to utilise the Max as a slow cruiser without ever going
beyond 4000rpm.Under those conditions tyres can last very long.
High speed riding
(beyond the speed limit for long distances) is also a known factor
accelerating tyre wear. Tyre pressures also have an effect. In summary
tyre life and mileage are probably very subjective to the rider. Brand
name loyalty and perceptions are also a big factor. Price of tyres are
probably too. This coupled to the fact that people like to justify
their choices could lead to non scientific results and deductions.
In any event I believe
that although some tyres may or may not be better than others I try to
not make too much of an issue of it. Some tyres (like clothes and
fashion) just seem to fit better and work better .Rubber compounds
also degrade after several years so I would be very loath to ride a
bike with tyres that are very old in age even though they have
sufficient tread left-once again I feel safer on new rubber
,particularly if you ride Mr Max in hot rod mode. Point in issue for
example is my opinion of Mr Max-there are other bikes but to me Vmax
is king. Others probably don't think so. Tyres are very
important-they are all that keeps your bike on the road and I try
never to compromise this aspect of my bike. My philosophy is fit the
suitable tyre that matches the function that you utilise the bike
for-eg would one use truck tyres on a racing car ?For most of above
reasons I changed to radial tyres -I expect the same ,if not better
mileage as the cross ply with safer and better handling.
As far as pipes go this
also is a personal issue-customise it to suit your fancy. I would
never dream of changing the pipes on my car for noisy ones. I just
feel that quiet pipes on a Vmax do not do justice to that Mighty
V4.The noisy pipes also act as a auditory warning to pedestrians and
cars that a fast accelerating bike is in the vicinity and I feel it
has safety advantages. Before with standard pipes in traffic more cars
would not see me and accident situations where frequent. Since I have
louder pipes I never use the hooter/horn anymore. Conversely the
louder noise mostly keeps me from being to eager to rev the engine
too high-Stupid arguments I know but ultimately it is my preference.
In response to ps.
I found your particulars
in the letters column of Bike SA-Feb 2006 and although I have not
corresponded with John ,I did read his interesting articles on your
site and look forward to contact with him as a fellow Vmaxer that he
is. As regards the frame brace I think it looks great-two of my Vmax
mates have them. Prior to solid engine mounts and on cross ply , my
Max (and two others belonging to friends of mine that I did ride) was
mushy in corners with lots of flex in the frame (all front and rear
suspension adjustments never cured the problem). I fitted solid
mounts (still cross ply tyres then) and the change was immediately
much better-no more flexing and cornering that held a line without
wrestling it to follow your line .Thereafter the radial tyres followed
and that was a huge improvement in handling and cornering-safer
,faster, easier ,more confidence, no more soiled underpants.
My internet readings on
frame bracing lead me to believe that it works as part of a list of
changes that provide incremental improvements. Swing arm bracing will
too. Frame bracing and swing arm bracing seem to work best on hotted
up Maxes that have big bore(1500 cc kits fitted and turbo ,nitro etc).
Basically 150 and more rear wheel horsepower bikes. There is no
denying that frame braces and swing arm braces look good and work as
intended on standard Maxes. I note that the new concept Vmax does not
(visibly) have these. Maybe these changes have been engineered into
the new bike.
On hotted up chain drive
converted Vmaxes I would personally not ride it unless it had solid
engine mounts ,frame bracing and swing arm bracing. There is a
documented case of a Vmaxer on a hotted up chain drive who had the
chain come off at high speed. The cause was observed on the dyno bench
to be that under high revs that the engine actually twists by as much
as an inch in the frame due to torsional forces causing the rubber
mounts to twist. On a drive shaft this is not a problem as with chain
drive however it contributes to flex and twist in the frame which
leads to bad handling in corners. Am I going to fit a frame brace
? With my present set up no-solid mounts and radials work
extremely well and I prefer the exposed open look of the V4 without
the frame brace. This is my personal opinion and I reiterate that
bracing does and must work. The only reason for now that I have not
done it is that I prefer the open look and no other valid reason.
What do you think of my new Head Lamp?
I have not been out at night with the head lamp as yet but even in the
daylight standing in front of the bike with the high beam on gives an
indication of the difference that it will make compared with the
John van Nieuwenhuizen.
Cross(bias) ply tyres are still used generally on cruisers and
older motorcycles. Cross ply tyres are available only in certain
sizes and mostly appropriate size substitution radial tyres are not
manufactured at all. Cross ply tyres have
significantly different dynamic properties when compared to radial
tyres. Cross ply tyres generally carry more weight, run hotter,
deflect differently, create different cornering forces and require
a higher side wall. The advent of the high performance low profile
radial ply tyre in the motorcycle industry has enabled motorcycles to
reach higher levels of straight line and cornering performance when
compared to that of cross ply tyres. No motorcycle championship has
been won on bias ply tyres for ages and radial tyres are the new
technology ticket to superior road handling and cornering. A wider
selection of tyre profile and rubber compounds make it possible
to utilize the radial tyre in almost any application for e.g. touring,
sport or racing.
Vmax-21 years on cross
Since the advent and further development of radial tyres
these have reached the level of refinement enjoyed today. The process
of developing better tyres continues all the time. The Max was born on
bias(cross)ply tyres . In 1984 the rear tyre on a Vmax was the
fattest rear tyre to be found on any mass produced bike. Furthermore
the entire and absolute goal of Yamaha was to build the ultimate
accelerating mass produced straight line hot rod-something it still
does very well. Cornering was never the goal. So even after 21 years
in production the Vmax has remained unchanged by still running on
cross ply tyres namely a rear 150/90 X 15"VR and a front 110/90 X
18"VR.This is probably by far the biggest cause for the Vmax being
labelled as a bad handling bike when compared to modern standards.
Other aspects like suspension and weight are definitely a factor
however it is the rubber on the road that is the final link between
the machine and the tarmac. No one would today ever fit cross ply
tyres to a modern high performance bike even if it had the best
Cornering / handling;
The radial tyre option ?
Most modern performance motorcycles are also measured by their
cornering and handling ability. In this regard tyres are the
biggest limiting factor for Mr Max. Although cross ply tyres are by no
means inadequate, they are really outdated in terms of the performance
offered by radial tyres. Now I can probably anticipate the argument
"Do you want a cruiser or a sport bike ?" My answer is foremost a sit
up straight and comfortably power cruiser that handles and corners
well. Consider that the HD VRod
was released in 2001 with radial tyres. Similarly the Triumph Rocket
3 was released in 2004 also with radial tyres. So is the solution
for the Vmax to simply fit radial tyres? Unfortunately the Vmax runs
on a 15 inch rear wheel for which no radial tyres are manufactured.
For the front tyre being 18 inches, radial tyres are manufactured. Most tyre manufacturers strongly advise against mixing bias ply and
17" radial tyre
Many Vmax owners have since the 90's had special rear rims
machined to accommodate 17" radials and many Vmax enthusiasts have
testified to the major increase in handling and cornering. After
serious conversation with other Vmax owners who had done the
conversion to radial tyres and further internet browsing, Iwas eager
and willing to give it a try.
17"rear wheel and
I fitted a 17" rear wheel with 180/55ZR radial tyre and front
110/80 X 18"ZR radial tyre to my Max. The change was stratospheric. My
Vmax is now Y2K spec-it rides softer on straight roads soaking up
bumps-is very stable at high speeds and handles corners hugely
better than bias ply tyres will ever be able to do. The Vmax has now
lost that raging buffalo, muscle car chaos in corners. In the past
fastcornering was not
for the novice let alone the experienced rider-many experienced riders
have returned from a ride with pale faces and almost soiled
underpants. The new bike now inspires confidence instead of terror and
the radial tyres can match the engine performance better. The Vmax now
can and does corner superbly well. Another definite
advised modification is to replace the rubber engine mounts with solid
metal mounts. The metal mounts make the engine part of the frame and
the ride is rock solid. Since the engine is counterbalanced the added
vibration is not noticeable. Of course other modifications like frame
bracing ,improved suspension etc. will all enhance the experience
.Bang for buck the radials and engine mounts are the best
modifications to drastically improve handling .In summary the future
is radial tyres .For the Vmax enthusiast who considers these
modifications I endorse them totally as well worth the effort and
expense . I have experienced the cornering confidence and improved
handling that radial tyres provide. Believe me a Vmaxfitted with
radial tyres does corner well. All aspects of enjoyment, be it
straight line or cornering are enhanced. On radials the Vmax is
capable of modern handling standards. This heavyweight brawler can
still run quarter mile times in the tens and when on radials can
handle corners like an agile middleweight on steroids. Vmax packs 21
years of the hardest heavyweight punches and now it does” float like a
butterfly –sting like a bee.”
At above show
Yamaha unveiled a concept “new” Vmax that is not yet to be released
for production .My calculated guess is that if it is ever released
that it will definitely be fitted with radial tyres. There will
probably also be improved suspension and brakes, lighter overall
weight and a revised V4 1800cc engine that hopefully will exceed the
performance and attitude of the 21 year old legend it is intended to
update. I use the word update instead of replace. V max cannot die and
is the American V8 in two wheel form. The new son of the original Max
will be welcomed-who’s your daddy ? The king of hotrods of course !
VMax fitted with Modern Performance Radial Tyres
The king is alive-long
live the king
Carl Talbot-Pietersburg back to TOP
IMPROVE YOUR STEERING THIS is
what the Dustmax owner did with his fork tubes. To make the
bike steer faster and improve responsiveness, I lowered the front end
1.25" by sliding the fork tubes up in the clamps. This in effect,
de-rakes the front end a bit. The steering reacts much faster now!
We are all searching
for more performance out of our V-max. Changing your plugs and wires
are an easy way to improve your bikes overall performance without
going broke. Recently I installed the Nology Hot wires. These wires
have a built in capacitor integrated into the plug wire and have a
braided stainless steel ground wire attached to every wire requiring
it to be grounded to the engine block. Very trick. Easy install it
took 45 minutes. The bike started faster, ran smoother and seemed to
come out of the gate a little quicker. After doing this I pulled the
plugs and they looked o.k. but being the perfectionist I am newer is
better. So I went to the store and picked up a set of NGK DPR8EIX-9
Iridium plugs gapped them to .032 and installed them. Big difference.
Much smoother Idle, better gas mileage and the bike screams. Granted,
you may not see the difference I did but, this is a great way to get
more out of your bike and preventive maintenance is always a good
thing. Ride Safe.
Tank rust can be a
real hazard for older motorcycles that have not been used for long
periods of time.
Tank Rust Sucks.
If you have an older
Vmax - it might be a good idea to check out the fuel tank for rust. It
might be a good time to replace the Fuel Filter under the seat
regardless of the condition of the tank. Some of the signs of bad rust
might be an intermittent loss of power during specific RPM ranges, or
a sputtering under engine load. This could be a sign that your Fuel
Filter is clogged with rust, or your Carb Bowls are dirty. Start
with the cheap and obvious first. Check the tank for Rust and Replace
the Fuel Filter.
How to avoid common
problems and install them correctly!
I've heard alot of people talk about the shortcomings of the
performance from the Dynojet stage 7 jet Kit. There seems to be a
common issue that the jet kit will screw up the carbs - and leave
holes in the power curve. In fact, I have an '85 that came with
a screwed up stage 7 jet kit - and it's been a nightmare to repair. So
- I understand the issue. Brien has put in many of these kits over the
years, and has developed a secret to DOING IT RIGHT. In fact, my
silver bike is absolutely perfectly tuned - With the Stage 7 kit. So -
I asked Brien to publish his secrets to help the Vmax community
install these kits without screwing up their carbs (ever see Vmax
carbs w/ stage 7 kit installed on Ebay? Ever wonder Why?)
Therefore - I'm proud to present.. -
Secret Stage 7 tech tips from "The Man".
The installation of the stage seven kit from Dynojet has some problems
caused by certain steps in the process.
1) when you come to the part of the installation of the new carb
springs do not do so - leave the stock ones instead. (The stock are
heavier springs, which allow faster throttle response than the heavier
DynoJet springs in the kit)
2) When you get to the step were they have you drill the slides on the
carbs do not do this either. (If you do so - you permanently destroy
the carb set.)
3) There is a note in the kit to resolve a stumbling problem referring
to an air jet do not put this jet in. (If you notice a stumbling
problem after installation and tuning, consider using the air jet -
but chances are you don't need it).
4) Install the 175 main jet at sea level to adjust for altitude times
this jet by how high up you are. (the equation is 100% is sea level
subtract 1% per thousand feet higher in altitude and times this number
by the jet size and round down to the nearest jet always to the large
size jet. example 100%-6%=94% 175X94%=164.5 the actual jet size would
be 165 this example is 100%-6%=94% 175X94%=164.5 the actual jet size
would be 165 this example is as the instructions tell you to and the
bike will have crisp throttle response and good fuel economy.
Note: Don't want to mess with this mod yourself?
Let the Expert do it!
OR - if you've already screwed up your carbs.. how about a
40mm TDM Carb kit?
In many cases this
second gear problem does not appear until the motorcycle has been
upgraded to an aftermarket exhaust system or slip on kit, which will
create more torque on the transmission. It is quite possible that the
transmission may have been slipping before the installation of the new
exhaust system, however; this problem may have not been noticeable
prior to the modification.
If you are
experiencing this problem, which may include the transmission popping
out of second gear, and consequently - getting worse every time you
ride. Do not continue to ride the motorcycle.
In time, the problem
could worsen so that the transmission will pop out and stay out rather
than sliding around to the next slot. If you catch the problem early
it may just be a bent shift fork (check both forks on the counter
shaft). Since you are already have the transmission apart, check the
dog and slot gears for wear and the lateral movement on the slot
If you decide to have
a shop fix this problem, be sure to print the tech bulletin from
Yamaha so the service department will be aware of these specific
Yamaha dealerships will not have this information, due to the fact
that the bulletin was originally published in 1985.
Special thanks to Stan
(the man!) at Yamaha technical support for his assistance in providing
Good luck from your
friends at the muscle bike company
Here at Musclebike,
We're now working on two '85 V-Max's. We choose the 1985 model
because they are - (some say - we agree) the fastest
year model ever produced. .
However - we've
noticed a similar problem between both bikes, and further research
into the issue has show that many early model V-Max owners with
early model motorcycles have the same issue - so it seems
to be a common problem.
THE PROBLEM: When
attempting to fire up the motor, the motor will turn over slowly
several times - and eventually fire. Another symptom is battery
charging - many people will keep these bikes on chargers to maintain
the proper voltage to the batterybecause the bike
usually starts right up when the voltage is peaked. So - it may appear
that the battery is old, dead, etc.. usually owners will replace
the battery - and find that this doesn't fix the problem.
Consequently - when riding the bike you may notice the that battery
will drain, so that after a few hours of riding - the motorcycle
We chased down this
issue, beginning with the starter - it didn't fix it. We ran tests on
the electrical system - everything passed. We looked at the battery,
it was charging, but draining when in use.
Finally we looked at
the regulator/rectifier under the left rear passenger peg. On earlier
model V-Max's, the regulator/rectifier is much different than the
later model. The new model is much more heat tolerant and has a ground
that connects directly to the negative battery post. The older model
appears to be an inferior design that adversely affects the charging
system. Consequently - a bad rectifier will fool the tech into
thinking that the battery is charging - when it isn't charging under
normal usage (when the motor is under sustained - running load) The
V-Max charges when not under a load (under 2000 rpm); However - when
an engine load is applied to the motor (above 2000rpm), the battery
THE FIX: We replaced
the stock 1985 regulator/rectifier with a regulator with a
regulator/rectifier from a 1997 model. The bike fires up instantly -
and - runs like it should because the correct amount of voltage is
passing through the system when the motorcycle is running. If
you've beaten your self up trying to find the solution to this issue,
check out the newer model regulator/rectifier.(SECRET
TIP = 1996-2003 year model regulator/rectifier. (part number
Send us your Pix, stories,
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Submit it to
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Many thanks to the people
who have invested their time in providing the info and tips.